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THE SEVEN-MILE MIRACLE

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The sound of waves detonating on the reef opposite the Billabong house makes it almost impossible to hear a word. No wonder, for we're standing just yards from the most famous surf break in the world, the Banzai Pipeline. And, in surf-speak, it's going off. Pulses of clean surf, generated by storms off the coast of Alaska, are marching...

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Men's Barracuda Shorts

Hans Hedemann Swimsuit

Hans reckons that Kuilima Point will be just right for the remainder of my stay: "The swell is dropping. It'll definitely be friendly," he says.

49,95€
 
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Bluecurl Men's Sharkskin Wetsuit

Next morning, clean lines of head-high swell are breaking off Kuilima Point. Friendly enough, so I grab my board. Once in the line-up (the place where surfers wait for unbroken waves)

799,00€
 
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Bluecurl Women's Swim Skin

I discover that even friendly north shore surf packs a punch – not least because larger waves have a habit of appearing out of nowhere.

499,00€
 
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Bluecurl Men's Elite Speed Suit

And then, although the next wave is his, he tells me to go for it. Momentarily, it strikes me that the gesture may have been born of compassion

399,00€
 
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The seven-mile miracle is the centre of world-class performance surfing

AND THEY ARE: PIPELINE, WAIMEA BAY, SUNSET BEACH, OFF THE WALL, ROCKY POINT, GAS CHAMBERS AND LOG CABINS

Oahu may mean, in Hawaiian, "the gathering place"

by Captain Cook, July 20th 2015 in Journals

Kahanamoku's legacy looms large, but the surf at Waikiki is small. Nevertheless, I hire a 10ft longboard and join the hordes of beginners at a break known as Canoes. The gentle surf bears me shoreward...

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AVALANCHE

An outer reef surf spot on Oahu, Hawaii; the white water pouring down the face of a wave...

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THE WEDGE

A famous body surfing spot located at the tip of the Balboa peninsula in Newport Beach...

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PIPELINE

A surf spot on the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii, between Waimea Bay and Sunset Beach...

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"Pulses of clean surf, generated by storms off the coast of Alaska, are marching implacably to the beach. Just before they get there, held up by an offshore breeze, they hit a lava reef, which forces them to rise steeply, then break in the form of the hallowed cylindrical tube that provides surfing nirvana..."
Jeff Popopoulos, 20 Nov. 1978
 
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Contact Us

On top of that, the surf is far bigger than it looked from the shore. But the locals are full of the aloha spirit, and impressed by Britain's surfing community

24, Kay West St. (0044) 653 34 54 67

CALIFORNIA
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